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RE: Progressive RV Insurance requires you to have another car?
Hi there, I'm new to the forum and would really appreciate your advice. I have a 2000 Freightliner MT45 step van that I converted myself and I'm shopping around for RV insurance. I came across a good deal from Progressive for full time RV insurance and I meet all the requirements EXCEPT for one statement:
I confirm that any motorhome listed on this quote:
Is not the only registered motor vehicle in the household.
I talked to an agent and he said that I basically have to own another vehicle, but I don't have to provide any further details to start the quote.
Does anyone have experience with this requirement by Progressive? Basically what I'm concerned about is if I have this policy without a second vehicle that I own and I make a claim, will Progressive ask about my second vehicle and potentially deny my entire claim?
Thanks for any advice,
Jeff
If you LIE on your application, you should EXPECT that your policy isn't going to cover you in the event of any claim. Which is kind of like not having insurance at all. Lying on your application IS insurance fraud. End of discussion. Whether or not you get caught for it, well that's a different question.
You want insurance mostly to cover you in the event something BIG (aka expensive) happens. Unfortunately, if something BIG happens that is when the insurance company will absolutely look for ways to not pay you. That is their right, if their findings (ie. lied on an application) are justified.
Imagine for a minute YOU buy stock and invest YOUR money in an insurance company. YOU benefit (increased stock price) based partially on the company's profitability. Would YOU want that insurance company to pay out claims for accidents to customers who LIED on their application (committed insurance fraud) and were stealing from the insurance company (...because the amount they were paying for insurance was less than the risk the insurance company was exposed to because, in this instance, the RV was used as a daily driver)? I wouldn't.
(side note: I don't have a love for insurance companies, but they are in business to make money)
How about this...perhaps look for a LEGAL workaround that still gets you what you want/need. If the question is about whether or not you have another REGISTERED vehicle in the household, then what would be the LEAST expensive way to answer that truthfully? Would a motorcycle or even an old motorized scooter count as a "vehicle"? If so, can you buy a VERY inexpensive (...I'm not even sure if it would need to be functional) motorcycle and register it with the DMV? (Note: From what you provided us, it doesn't even ask if you have this extra "vehicle" insured or not...just "registered"). I believe registering a motorcycle is much less than a car. Maybe you could buy a pile of parts motorcycle for $100 and register it for very little and then you can answer the question from Progressive truthfully. Then, make sure you keep it registered. Just a thought. Even this is a bit "off" in my mind, but at least you would be able to honestly say that you answered their application question truthfully.
Do not lie on your application...it could turn out very badly for you and your family.
Good luck!
Chris
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SJ-Chris
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11/12/23 11:42am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Which is the better battery configiration
One often forgot about fact is that the 12v are very much lighter than the 6 volts. I went from 8 six volts to three 12 volts (all AGM) and my total weight went down a bit over 300 lbs.
12v AGM battery weighs ~63lbs (google)
6v GC battery weights ~60lbs (google)
Two 12v AGM batteries (~100AH + ~100AH = ~200AH) weigh ~126lbs
Two 6v GC batteries (~210-220AH) weigh ~120lbs
Eight 6v GC batteries provides ~840AHs capacity and weighs ~480lbs.
Three 12v AGM batteries provide ~300AHs capacity and weighs ~189lbs.
Yes, your weight dropped ~300lbs, but your battery bank capacity dropped ~540AHs. Your weight didn't go down because you switched from 6v batteries to 12v AGMs, it went down because you cut your battery bank capacity down ~540AHs (which is certainly the right thing to do if you don't need that much battery bank).
-Chris
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SJ-Chris
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11/03/23 04:16pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: New to Solar. Conect directly to battery ????
An excellent component to add to your RV/TT is a battery monitor. There are very suitable ones for $20-50 that will give you some indication as to HOW your power gets used, what each device in your RV uses for power, and a whole host of other great things. There are also more expensive battery monitors that interface through your phone. Just depends how fancy you want to be.
Here's a link to a newbie solar install I did about 3 years ago. Lots of info, pics, steps. Was very inexpensive and it still is working great!
https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/30217540.cfm
WARNING: Solar is addictive...
Stay charged!
Chris
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SJ-Chris
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11/01/23 06:55pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: New to Solar. Conect directly to battery ????
You mention you have 2 deep cycle batteries for your boondocking. Depending if their size, and whether they are 12v batteries or two 6v batteries in series, you likely have ~200-220AHs of battery capacity.
The first question is: Are those batteries still good? Or are they at their end of life? If they are old and at their end of life, then getting new batteries is your first step. You can have them tested at a local auto parts store for free (usually).
Regarding solar panels...On a good, sunny day, a decent 100w panel can provide ~20-35AH back into your battery bank. An inexpensive, foldable Harbor Freight solar panel may produce a fair amount LESS than this.
It is a good idea for you to first figure out approximately what your actual battery needs are before starting to add solar. For example, do you find that you can boondock with your existing batteries (starting fully charged) for 3-4 days before they are getting low? If that is the case, then maybe you only need 100-200w of solar to help you extend that time to 4-6 days. Or, do you wake up every morning and your batteries are close to empty? In that case, you might need 400-600w of solar panels to get them charged back up the next day.
Here is a good tip to save a LOT on adding solar...Buy used solar panels. As long as you test them with a volt/amp meter before buying, you will be able to buy 5-10yr old solar panels for $0 to $50 each, saving you 60-90% on your panels. Solar panels have no moving parts and can last a long time. For example, I bought/installed several 250w residential panels that only cost me $35 each and they work great. Depending on what part of the country you are in, solar panels can be found easily on craigslist or facebook marketplace.
To answer your specific question.... There are some "toy/junk" solar panels that are very low power that you could probably hook up directly to your battery terminals. I've seen some 10-20w panels for this. They could possibly be useful for putting a very small trickle charge on your batteries for when in storage. That 100w Harbor Freight panel might be similar (it will show you on the packaging). But if that is the case, the entire setup will be very low power (basically junk) especially if you are thinking about using it for boondocking. The proper way to add/use solar is to get proper solar panels (new or used) and then hook them up to a solar charge controller (there are different types depending on the voltage of the solar panels) and then the output of that solar charge controller hooks up to your batteries. The solar charge controller will properly adjust its output voltage and charge your battery correctly (as opposed to a flimsy solar panel with alligator clips to go to your battery). If you hook up a solar panel's output directly to your batteries you could damage your batteries.
Good luck!
Chris
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SJ-Chris
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11/01/23 11:11am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Which is the better battery configiration
So Pianotuna, are you basically telling me that I could get a DC to DC charger and then that would take the starting (chassis) batteries and use them to charge the house batteries? And of course the alternator would recharge the starting batteries.
The chassis batteries do not charge the house batteries. It is the chassis's alternator that charges everything (chassis battery, and house batteries if you have a DC to DC charger).
-Chris
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SJ-Chris
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10/29/23 08:47pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: an article about RV'ing
What do you think about my new green RV?
The engine is small (only 4 horsepower), but it gets me to where I'm going...
https://i.imgur.com/IEQDUyBl.jpg
I'll be installing solar next week.
I am having one problem though....My black waste tank sensors aren't working properly. Does anyone know where I can find some ice to put in the tank so that I can drive around and clean those sensors??
:)
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SJ-Chris
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10/29/23 01:13pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: an article about RV'ing
LOL....
People RV for a lot of great reasons.
Mostly (90%?), people RV for short, fun vacations and getaways with family/friends (and their RVs sit in storage 340 days per year)
Some people use their RVs more often for fun (...these are the lucky ones!)
Some people use RVs for temporary housing during home remodels/etc.
Some people use RVs to live in because they cannot afford renting an apartment/home.
Some people live in RVs full time because they want the freedom to travel anywhere in the country.
I'm guessing 0.0001% of people RV "to use less electricity" and to "save the planet". Do you think the author of that article knows this? Probable. Fun to read anyways.
-Chris
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SJ-Chris
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10/29/23 01:01pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Which is the better battery configiration
I am trying to learn more about 6 volts batteries versus 12 volts. I know the 6 volts can be drained further and recharged more (better lifetime). At least that is what I think is true. But it seems 12 volts have more amp hours (or minutes) (I think). So if I got 4 batteries, would you get 4 12 volts and put them parallel or 4 6 volts and wire them in series to get 12 volts and then in parallel to double the amp time? And why? I may be venturing into the Motorhome world and I have many questions.
Thank you.
For just about all intents and purposes, using two 6v GC lead batteries in your RV house is better than using two 12v lead batteries. As long as they fit (6v batteries are typically an inch or so taller). If you were thinking about using four 12v batteries, four 6v GC batteries will be better. The 6v GC battery is better designed for deeper and more frequent discharges.
If you are not boondocking more than 40-50 days PER YEAR, and you have a way of charging your lead batteries soon after each discharge (ie. solar, generator, etc), there is absolutely no problem discharging them 80% each time. The "don't let them discharge below 50%" mantra is incorrect and a myth for 99% of casual RVers. If the above sentences describe how you will use your batteries, you will never "use up" all of your batteries potential total lifetime number of cycles and you don't need to worry about your batteries getting down to 20%. One caveat I would mention: If you use your inverter a lot and/or have heavy draws on it, then lead batteries WILL give you a problem as their State of Charge gets lower and lower. This is one area where more expensive Lithium battery solutions excel.
Lithium batteries are better than lead batteries for many reasons...And if those reasons are important to you in practice (not just in theory), then Lithium batteries are an amazing solution. BUT many many many RV users don't need Lithium batteries to enjoy their RVs/TTs to their particular requirements (ie. most casual RV users).
One last thing....If you are asking about batteries, I assume it is because you are interested in boondocking (not just being plugged in at a campsite). If that is the case, you will definitely want to consider some solar on your RV as that does amazing things for your RV experience as it pertains to batteries. It effectively extends your battery AHs...It means less generator running/noise...It means no dead batteries while in storage...It extends your battery life by never having your batteries sit drained...(all of this of course depends on sunlight availability).
Good luck!
Chris
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SJ-Chris
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10/29/23 12:51pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: I can’t be the only one with a poorly designed black tank.
One other thing that could be helpful...
Maybe if every time before you do a #2 in the toilet you first do a quick 3 second flush to send water down into your black tank and therefore onto the shelf. Then, maybe when you flush your business shortly afterwards it will drop down into the main part of your waste tank because maybe that shelf will already be wet and a little slipperier. Just a thought.
-Chris
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SJ-Chris
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10/29/23 12:28pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: I can’t be the only one with a poorly designed black tank.
Something that could help... If possible, install a flush (or Tornado flush) such that it runs along that shelf blasting everything away. Or if that's not possible, a Tornado flush that is pointed right towards the shelf to hopefully do some blasting of that shelf area. This would be useful only when you dump, but at least it gets "the shelf" clean/empty (hopefully) each time you dump so that you are starting from scratch rather than having it build up.
Here is a link to an easy, and inexpensive, install:
https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/30315748.cfm
Note: This is different than simply "filling" your black waste tank (with perhaps your built in flush connection) and doing another flush. The Tornado flush actually sprays the water in the direction of your choosing (in this case, along the shelf or at the shelf). If nothing else, it also takes the place of having to stick "the wand" down the toilet (...which requires running a hose into your RV and playing around with the wand in the toilet inside the RV, and then having to carefully get it all back out of the RV which is all very painful).
Good luck!
Chris
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SJ-Chris
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10/29/23 12:26pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Recommendations for solar charge/controller
You will love the "free" (after cost of installation) AHs your batteries get anytime the sun is shining. Plus, when in storage your batteries will keep/remain charged.
If you don't think you will add more wattage in the future, getting a 30amp controller will be fine. If you think you might want to add more panels in the future, then you should look to buy a 40-60amp controller.
As mentioned, you 100% need to get an MPPT controller, otherwise you will only get ~40% of the watts that you are expecting/hoping out of your panels.
Since you have two separate battery banks, it would be kinda cool if you incorporate a switch of some sort such that you can charge either (or both at the same time) bank that you want.
Parallel vs series probably won't make much difference overall. In either case, you should install them away from any tall items (ie. AC unit) on your roof.
Good luck!
Chris
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SJ-Chris
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10/24/23 01:37pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Leveling Scissor Jacks
My concern is that the jacks are typically mounted parallel to the bumper. Jack that thing up very far and if the RV does start to move in either direction, forward or backward, the jack itself would "roll" the RV the direction it is already traveling, and end up dropping the rv, ruining the jacks, and likely doing damage to the RV in the process.
Definitely a concern.
They are mounted parallel so that you can more easily access the bolt to do the raising/lowering. I completely agree with you that if the RV rolls (even just a few inches) it will likely bend the jack. I don't think it would necessarily cause any damage to the RV, but your jack would be "jacked" (aka bent/broken). Perhaps if I added these on the rear (as close to the axle as possible) it would be my protocol to ONLY have one rear actually lifted at any given time and make sure the other one is on the ground so that the RV cannot roll (because the brakes will hold the RV in place). So as far as leveling goes, they would only come in handy if just one of the rear sides needed to be lifted some. They could also be used for stabilization.
An added benefit of having, for example, one of these 9000lb scissor jacks mounted at the rear frame as close to the rear axle as possible is that it could be used to change a tire if needed. I've also had to jack up the rear to adjust valve stems, and add a flush system, and fix my black waste tank..... So it does seem to come up from time to time. :-)
I'd still like to know from those in the know if it is okay to lift the rear corner of a Class C RV from the frame I-beam as close to the rear axle as possible (maybe ~3' from the rear axle). Anyone know? From some video links I posted in a post above, it seems like this is where (seemingly) professionals have installed lifts, but I'm still interested in more feedback if some here have experience.
Happy Camping!
Chris
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SJ-Chris
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10/21/23 05:20pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Leveling Scissor Jacks
You can use 20 ton jacks on all 4 corners to support a few hundred pounds but it's silly when they were engineered for multiple times the expected load in the first place.
Yes, most are going to be rated for at least a ton...simply because it's more complicated to design them for less.
The 12-ton bottle jack (not 20 ton) reference was only for when I'm lifting one rear axle (~4500lbs) to remove a tire/etc and if I'm going to be underneath the RV at all. And if I am, I also put some extra 3-ton jack stands just to be extra safe.
You have mentioned multiple times above "support a few hundred pounds"...I assume you are talking about just using a jack to do some stabilizing (not lifting). Sure, in that case using a jack that is rated for as little as 1-ton would be fine.
-Chris
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SJ-Chris
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10/21/23 04:28pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Leveling Scissor Jacks
My .02 cents.
1- Installed jacks to the frame will take up 4” of ground clearance while retracted.
I guess depending where you install them , that may or may not be an issue.
Yes, this is true. I have found that on my Class C RVs there is plenty of room for this on the rears, but not really room for this on the fronts. I suspect most Class C RVs will have this issue.
My .02 cents.
2- keep in mind that the motorhome parking brake only locks the rears. Even blocking the fronts , don’t get too crazy lifting the rears.
THIS is the issue that occurred to me above as a potential problem, yet one that is never mentioned in the "Don't use scissor jacks to lift your RV" debate. I agree that you would want to block your front tires if raising the rear, and even then you need to be careful and use common sense. And as mentioned before, you REALLY need to take extra precaution any time you plan on physically going UNDER your RV.
One thing to be wary of...if you have the rear lifted by scissor jacks that are bolted to your frame...If your RV does roll forward or backwards it is going to bend your jacks and then you may have a problem. Because of this, I think if you were attaching scissor jacks to the rear of your RV for leveling it might be good practice to ONLY lift one side and to always make sure one side in the rear is on the ground or on leveling blocks. This restriction does limit their usability some, but I think they can still be very useful/handy. Then again, you can ALSO use them as stabilizers, so....
Happy Camping!
Chris
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SJ-Chris
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10/20/23 12:46pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Leveling Scissor Jacks
Any borderline competent engineer is already including a 2-3 time factor of safety when setting the load limits.
I agree that a responsible company who produces a jack with an advertised weight rating of 5000lbs (for example) probably designs it such that it can safely handle quite a bit more load just so that there is some buffer of protection for the company's liability (and the end user).
As a consumer/user, If I am looking for a jack to lift 5000lbs I want to be extra safe so I will add in my own buffer of 2-3x (or more) just so that I know whatever jack I am using is more than capable of performing the task. I usually use a 12-ton bottle jack (24,000lbs) when jacking up one rear side (~4500lbs) of one of my 30' RVs. (And if I'm going under my RV or removing tires, I will also put some 3-ton jack stands under the frame as backup)
I would never use (or recommend) a jack to lift a load that is more than what the jack is rated to lift.
The typical "stabilizing" jacks are only intended to support a few hundred pounds to take some of the bounce out of the rig. If lifting, they should be much stronger.
I haven't seen any stabilizing jacks (usually scissor type) rated for less than 1-ton (2000lbs). But I agree that even those would be only to provide some minor stabilizing to take some of the bounce out of the rig as you mention. They do have scissor jacks rated at 9000lbs+ though and I believe those could lift up to their weight rating if used safely, and thus could under the right circumstances be used for leveling an RV.
-Chris
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SJ-Chris
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10/20/23 10:42am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Leveling Scissor Jacks
One thing to consider is the leveling systems I'm familiar with run 2 jacks at the same time (both front, both side or both rear). This causes the whole rig to rotate with the frame not twisting.
If you are doing it manually, one jack at a time, that can introduce a lot of twisting in the frame. Not a big deal for the frame as it's unlikely to fail but the house is bolted to the frame and not very strong...you might be opening up the seams in the roof as it all twists or loosening the screws holding the cabinets.
It is actually kind of amazing that RVs stay together at all when you consider they are twisting and flexing and turning and bouncing for 1000s and 1000s of miles as you drive down the road, over bumps and potholes, etc.
When leveling an RV, I believe you will either need to adjust 0, 1, 2, or 3 tires ("corners") to make them higher in order to get your RV level. I would contend that leveling your RV from a correct jack point (or like most people, just putting blocks under their tires) does absolutely zero damage and adds zero stress to the structural integrity of your RV. In fact, it ALLEVIATES stress/twisting/etc. The fact that your RV is unlevel implies it is being stressed or twisted as long as it is unlevel. Here is an exaggerated example to illustrate my point... Imagine you pull into a campsite and your front 2 tires and your rear driver side tire are all perfectly level but your passenger side rear tire is 12 inches too low. You are parked there. The rear passenger side of your RV is causing your entire RV to be wildly unlevel. If you try walking in your RV it is sloping a tremendous amount. At that moment, the frame and everything attached to the frame is under much stress BECAUSE it is unlevel. It is designed to handle it, but it is under stress. If you now raise that passenger side rear corner (from a proper jack point and/or by putting something under that tire) you will NOT be stressing/twisting the frame but rather you will be de-stressing/un-twisting the frame and putting the RV back to level (...I suppose you could call it the RV's happy place...being level). Right?
Or, another example...Assume you are parked perfectly level. I think we can all agree that when level and parked the RV and its frame and everything attached to it are in their happy place and they are not experiencing extra structural stress. Now imagine if you start putting blocks under just one tire (or jacking up just one corner from a proper jack location). You raise that tire/corner 3 inches, then 6 inches, then 9 inches, then 12 inches. As you are doing this, it is ADDING stress to the overall frame/structure/integrity of your RV. Right? Well, as you start removing this added height and you are dropping it back down to being level once again it is removing all that added stress. Making the RV level puts it in a state of the least amount of structural stress.
If the above is true, then any time you are leveling your RV, and you are doing so with items designed to support the load (either blocks under the tires, or jacks of any kind designed to hold the proper amount of weight) from a location designed for that purpose (ie. under the tire, or at a proper jack point), then you are actually REMOVING stress/twisting to the structural foundation of your RV.
-Chris
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SJ-Chris
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10/20/23 10:26am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Leveling Scissor Jacks
Chris, the co's that make them always include a CYA statement that says they're only for stabilizing and not lifting. That being said, from my 40 yrs experience there's nothing wrong with using them up to their rating and maybe even a little beyond. After all, they are first and foremost "Jacks".
I can tell you that when they are very substantially overloaded, nothing dramatic happens. It simply bends the "jack" screw and thereafter causes the jack to wobble when extending or retracting.
I learned this when I forced mine to lift the whole side of my RV so I could change out a tire in some sand on the side of the road (thank you Carlisle).
Since then I'm sure I've overloaded them many times when leveling my rig and I was close but just needed a few extra turns. When I see the screw start to deflect, I stop (or at least soon after..).
Thanks for sharing your experience/feedback.
If anyone is using any type of jack (scissor included), I would suggest using one that is rated for well over the amount you are lifting. I like to shoot for 2-3 times more weight rating than what I am lifting as then I know the jack itself shouldn't be getting stressed.
-Chris
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SJ-Chris
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10/20/23 12:54am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Leveling Scissor Jacks
Something I haven't been able to figure out... Is there something inherently bad about scissor jacks that make them not good for lifting an RV for leveling it?
Disclaimer: If I am ever going underneath my RV I always have multiple jacks and jack stands just in case for safety, and I suggest you do so also. This discussion is only as it pertains to leveling/lifting an RV with scissor jacks when at a campsite.
Many many many people will be quick to say, "scissor jacks are for stabilizing and not for jacking up your RV", but can you explain WHY?? People read that on the internet somewhere and then they are quick to regurgitate it without a real reason why.
Think about it for a minute....MOST regular cars (not RVs) come with a scissor jack for what?? For jacking up your regular car to replace a flat tire if needed. The scissor jack lifts up your regular car. Lifting is what a scissor jack is designed to do.
I would argue that your RV doesn't know WHAT KIND of jack you are using....scissor jack, bottle jack, floor jack, etc. Seems like the two main considerations would be 1)What weight limit is the jack rated at, and 2)Where are you jacking it up? For example, I routinely use a 12-ton bottle jack on my axle to jack up one rear side of my 30' Class C RV if I need to remove a tire. I'm pretty sure the RV would not care one bit if I used a properly weight rated scissor jack and lifted it from the same exact spot. Right? (Side note: This assumes you have proper contact and things don't slip while jacked up. Using the flat top of a scissor jack probably wouldn't be a good idea on a round axle jack location, but if the scissor jack were used on the flat portion of the frame AND bolted to the frame slipping would not be a worry.) My point is that a scissor jack that is rated to lift 9000lbs can lift the weight of half of the rear of my RV which is ~4500lbs.
AS LONG AS you are using a scissor jack that is weight rated to lift a side of your RV, can anyone explain what is wrong with using a scissor jack?? For example, my rear axle weight is about 9000lbs (total). Let's assume it is evenly distributed so that means 4500lbs on each side. If I use a scissor jack on one side and that scissor jack is weight rated for 9000lbs (double the weight of one side of my RV) what is the problem?
I *DO* see a potential problem with using a jack (ANY type of jack) to level your RV by lifting it AT THE WRONG LOCATION, where maybe you could bend the frame for example. BUT that seems like it would have nothing to do with using a scissor jack per se as you would have the same problem if you used a bottle jack or floor jack in an improper jacking location. Right??
One last example to prove my point.... A Class C RV DOES have 4 100% proper jack locations that we know about. Let's assume those 4 locations are on the front and rear axles right near the respective tires. Would you agree that it would be okay and do no damage to use 4 properly weight rated bottle jacks (or jack stands), one on each of those jack points to level your RV at a camping site? (Note: I wouldn't actually do this, but I'm trying to prove a point.) If you agree that no damage would happen in this scenario, then how about if the jacks were replaced with floor jacks that were properly weight rated. Any issue? I think not. Well what if those jacks were replaced with properly weight rated scissor jacks. Any issue? I think not.
If this thinking is correct, then would it be right to say that using scissor jacks to level your RV is ok as long as you use scissor jacks that are weight rated properly (I like to use 2x the actual load it is lifting) AND you are using a proper jack location? If so, it gets back to my previous question above regarding Where on the frame is it okay to jack up the RV (from an "I don't want to bend the frame or do any damage because of improper jack location" perspective)?
Ah.....I just thought of one other issue, and maybe this is the reason people say not to use jacks to level your RV, but I don't think I've read it anywhere before... I will wait for a bit to post the issue as I am curious to hear feedback on the above.
-Chris
PS: Have you ever seen an RV being worked on at a repair shop with a jack stand underneath the 4 jack points by each tire? I have. Doesn't seem to bother them.
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SJ-Chris
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10/19/23 03:55pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Leveling Scissor Jacks
" suppose you could define Stabilizing as taking SOME of the load off the tires/leaf springs such that movement inside the RV is reduced when someone is walking around or when the wind is blowing (aka: Makes things more stable inside). Whereas Leveling could involve taking ALL the load off the tires/leaf springs with the primary goal of making the RV LEVEL inside (and secondarily making it also more stable since the load will be off the tires/leaf springs). When Leveling in this manner, it is possible that some of the tires could be literally off the ground and the weight on that side/corner will be supported wholly by the leveling jack."
^^^^^^
To get the wheels off the ground with these jacks what do you use as a crank. My cordless impact,lifting my trailer, bottoms out before the wheels even think about lifting off the ground. The hand crank is basically used once there is no weight on the jacks.
I can't imagine one of these would lift a class c off the ground. Stabilize against side by side movement, yes. But if these are not on the frame of the coach you are asking for issues in my opinion.
Think about it. If someone was going to change a tire and put the jack on the corner of your coach to lift it, what would you think would happen.
While I haven't tried to actually lift any side of a Class C RV with a scissor jack, I would think my impact wrench would be able to do it. Has anyone tried?
-Chris
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SJ-Chris
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10/19/23 02:47pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Leveling Scissor Jacks
I am not an expert on the matter, but putting a support pillar way out on each end of a beam without knowing just how much load that beam is capable of supporting is a bad idea. Stabilizing and leveling are two way different concepts when it comes to how strong a beam needs to be.
I suppose you could define Stabilizing as taking SOME of the load off the tires/leaf springs such that movement inside the RV is reduced when someone is walking around or when the wind is blowing (aka: Makes things more stable inside). Whereas Leveling could involve taking ALL the load off the tires/leaf springs with the primary goal of making the RV LEVEL inside (and secondarily making it also more stable since the load will be off the tires/leaf springs). When Leveling in this manner, it is possible that some of the tires could be literally off the ground and the weight on that side/corner will be supported wholly by the leveling jack.
The official jack point on the rear (in a Class C) is on the axle itself. I would need to look underneath my RV to see exactly how this load is applied/distributed to the frame beam, but I believe it is somewhat spread across via the leaf spring. If I were to install a scissor jack on the beam itself AS CLOSE TO THE AXEL AS POSSIBLE (probably within ~3') I wonder if this is okay. Thoughts? Have any of you done this?
My gut feeling is that I would NOT want to install a scissor jack for leveling (lifting) "way out on the end of the beam" as that is probably ~8' behind the axle and that seems like it would put maximum stress on the frame beam. But would a scissor jack ~3' from the rear axle be okay?
Doing some searching online....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hfg70RzvaIk
(jump to 7:43 for an installation image from the manufacturer of one particular RV as ONE data point...)
or this video at ~1:20 shows leveling jack installed about 3' behind the rear axle...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=93dNz8Ft-tM
Or this one at 5:50 and 7:20...shows rear jacks ~3' behind the axle.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1U0Igk0ZSa0
Those above videos seem to be leveling systems installed by professionals. Based on those, it seems like installing rear jacks ~3' behind the rear axles is likely okay. Anyone have more to add?
Thanks!
Chris
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SJ-Chris
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10/19/23 12:27pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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